Good news: as of Thursday, Sandema has internet once again!
On Tuesday morning, we visited the Tamale branch of Sinapi Aba Trust, a Ghanaian microfinance institution, and spoke to the regional manager there. He told us about the goals of the SAT and the way it structures its operations and its loans. In many ways it is similar to the Grameen Bank, the original microlending institution, such as its focus on loaning to women and in how its clients are organized into groups. One key difference is that the SAT provides training along with its loans. This training is not in basic productive skills, which it assumes its clients already possess, but in business skills such as customer relations. From what he told us, the SAT has been very successful, with a 95% to 98% repayment rate. It's been around since 1994, and in the last six months alone they've grown from about 2.5 million clients to 3.7 million, counting both individual and group borrowers as single clients.
Afterward I made my previous post from a small internet cafe, and then we loaded all our things onto another blisteringly hot bus. It cooled down somewhat once it started moving, and after a few hours we arrived at the bus depot in the town of Bolga. Here we moved quickly to another bus. As we moved we were swarmed by vendors and people offering to carry our bags for us, and, it seemed, a fair few who just wanted to gawk or jeer at the white people. I suppose that's just part of traveling in a place where we're visibly very different from the locals, but it was a jarring change from the relative warmth and hospitality we'd experienced elsewhere.
We then boarded the bus that would take us to Sandema. This bus was delightfully mad. It was stuffed with things that wouldn't fit in the luggage bays. To get to the back of the bus we walked over a thick layer of people's things, such as backpacks and big bags of grain, which covered the floor of the central aisle. Many people rode standing up because there was no room for them to sit, as some of the seats were full of more of people's things. There might even have been some goats or chickens aboard. Kelly told us that the relatively empty buses we'd ridden previously had been anomalies and that this one was typical!
Finally, a little while after night had fallen, we arrived in Sandema. The boys from the Horizons Children's Centre met us there with a cart, which they loaded up with all our bags and pushed all the way to our house! After eating a quick dinner that Joe Abobtey had brought for us, we did a bit of unpacking and then went to bed at about eleven. Then, in the middle of the night, a storm hit us. Our room's windows were facing into the wind, so it came howling through, banging our door open and shut and waking us all up! We made several attempts at blocking it with our bags before finding one that didn't get pushed loose after a minute, and then went to sleep again, listening to the tremendous howl of the wind and enjoying the cool air it brought into the house.
The house itself has four bedrooms, several bathrooms and showers, a kitchen, and a living room. It's what we might call a fixer-upper back home, but the rooms are spacious enough and there are plenty of ceiling fans which help keep it cool. A partially-built wall surrounding it encloses a yard, from which we've spent some time each night watching lightning in distant storms. There are bats that live inside the roof and at night they can be glimpsed as they fly in and out of the gaps to hunt. We have a refrigerator with a freezer which is a welcome luxury, as it allows us to cool our own purewater and keep some leftovers from the meals we make (though I'm not sure how cold the fridge keeps things - today I checked on some scrambled egg with onion from two days ago, and the onions had gone blue and a bit fuzzy). We do our laundry in buckets and hang it to dry on some lines we've put up around the yard. We'll be spending the next month here, and despite its imperfections, we're all settling in quite well and it's starting to feel something like home!
Sandema is a small rural town in Ghana's Upper East Region. The local language here is Buli, which is very different from the Twi which is spoken in most of the areas we've visited previously. Animals are abundant here. Many people here keep livestock, which generally seem to be allowed to roam free, so walking from place to place one sees donkeys, chickens, guinea fowl, the occasional turkey, and a lot of goats. Lizards are as common as squirrels in Vancouver, and like our squirrels they come in gray and black varieties and can be seen climbing over just about everything, and even chasing each other up and down trees. The people of Sandema have been quite welcoming, particularly as Kelly and Taha already know many of them. We have a few friends already who drop by in the evenings just to hang out.
The primary reason we're here, of course, is the Horizons Children's Centre. While we'd met most of the kids in the dark when we first arrived, the next evening they had us come to the school to formally welcome us. We knew they were going to sing us a song, and one of the group members, Ben, had brought his guitar, so he picked a song he knew how to play and we came up with our own words to it. After we swapped our songs, three of the kids played African drums while the rest of us danced. All the kids were very friendly, and they and the teachers were very welcoming. There's a pretty wide age range. Some of the kids don't look older than about six, while others look closer to seventeen.
On Thursday, we got a tour of the Tono irrigation system, which was a short ways outside Sandema. This consisted of a huge dam and a small number of canals that carried the water from the dam over a large area of farmland owned in parcels vy a number of farmers, and used to grow everything from rice to tomatoes. The northern region of the country has only one rainy season, unlike the south which has two, so farming in the north tends to be harder and to yield less than in the south. The Tono system was intended to alleviate this problem. Two of the chief engineers on the project talked to us about the challenges still faced by the farmers, such as choosing crops for which there will be a strong market and having to compete with the farmers in the south, and took us on the tour. We only saw a small part of the farmland itself, getting a close look at some rice paddies near the dam. It was a very interesting excursion, though doubtlessly the most fun part was riding in the back of the pickup truck that took us around the dam. :P
Thursday was market day in Sandema. This market cycles every three days between the towns of Bolga, Navrongo, and Sandema, spending one day in each town. After getting back from our tour of Tono, we went to the market and bought groceries for the next few days, as well as delicious Ghanaian "doughnuts", which are really just fried, mildly sweetened balls of dough, not unlike Honey's doughnuts in Vancouver. The market isn't as big as the one in Kumasi (which I'm told is the biggest in West Africa), but it was still quite large and very busy, full of vendors shouting prices for all manner of items, from food to clothing. Much of the food looked appetizing, though some of it really didn't.
Equatorial regions tend to have extremely dense and vibrant ecosystems compared to the rest of the world, and one problem this causes is that nature tends to encroach much more rapidly and aggressively on human-built spaces than in the global north. Keeping things clean here is therefore much more of a challenge than at home, and with the relatively low level of development, they don't have the tools we do to fight back against it. If you have meat outside, it's going to get covered in flies, and without access to refrigeration, it's going to smell. This is precisely the situation at the outdoor markets. At one stall I saw what was probably the most disgusting thing I've seen anyone try to sell - a massive pile of mulched dried fish, surrounded by a cloud of flies and smelling like it had been sitting in the sun far too long. It was very impressive, in a ghastly kind of way, and certainly not something you're likely to see in Canada!
That's about all for now. Given that there's regular internet access here, I'll be able to post whenever there's something new and interesting to share. I expect things will probably slow down for a while now as we'll be spending all our time in one place. Until next time, thanks for reading!
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Kumasi, part 2
I'm posting this from a little internet cafe in Tamale, in the north of the country. We've done and seen quite a lot since my last post, so it's another long one.
On Sunday, we visited Albert and Evelyn Annadie, a husband-and-wife team who founded the Kaleo Area Women's Development Association (KAWDA). They fed us a big lunch and told us about the work they do with female victims of HIV/AIDS. Albert spoke eloquently about it and I won't try to summarize it here, but do check out their website at sites.google.com/site/kawdaghana to learn all about their project. We also met Alice, a girl from London who was volunteering with KAWDA for the summer, and Albert and Evelyn's kids, who didn't speak much English but were very friendly. Several of them insisted on arm-wrestling me and Taha, and one of them, Alfreda, variously clung to my leg, rode piggy-back on me, and finally pushed me half way down the path back to the road when we were leaving!
Walking back to the hostel at about three or four, we bought coconuts from a vendor, who chopped the tops off with a machete to make a hole wide enough to drink from. We walked the rest of the way through the afternoon heat drinking the faintly sweet and surprisingly cool milk straight from the shells. The fruit here is fantastic. We've eaten pineapples, oranges, papayas, mangoes, and lemons, and probably other fruit that I'm forgetting, all bought from roadside fruit vendors. Some look very different from what we're used to. The oranges have green skin, as do the lemons, which are spherical and warty-looking. But all of it is very flavourful and much juicier than those I've had anywhere else. The pineapple in particular is the sweetest I've eaten.
One big cultural difference between North America and Ghana is how open the people here are. As I mentioned in my last post, Ghanaians are much more likely to just walk up and introduce themselves to strangers just for the hell of it. Some of the most memorable were the woman in the market who gave me and Sarah (another OG member) new names, and Addi James, a policeman with an AK-47 whom I got directions from and chatted with. Two nights ago we took in some live music and dancing, and there were two local guys who were pretty crazy dancers, who evidently got a big kick out of seeing me try to match their prowess (Julian probably could have done better)! In my part of the world you generally don't talk to others unless there's a particular reason for doing so. This is something my friend Julian has observed in most Asian countries as well; as one of our trip leaders, Taha, said, this closed-ness seems to be a phenomenon peculiar to the West. Why this is, I don't know, but I have to wonder.
Another, more amusing cultural difference, is the corniness of advertising in Kumasi. Everything from movie posters to shop signs are all visually cluttered and gaudy, and festooned with simple photoshop effects like lens flares and blurred-together images. The small businesses that line the streets of Kumasi have names like "Perfectman Ent." and "Great Wisdom Bookstore", and many of them are overtly religious, despite the businesses in question having nothing in particular to do with religion. I can't recall many examples off the top of my head, but my favorite so far was "Jesus is Still Alive Ent.", which I think was an electronics repair shop. Even the taxis are festooned with phrases like "God is Good" and "Jesus saves". Evidently Ghanaians are very religious, and see no contradiction in incorporating that into their commercial endeavors!
Yesterday we began our journey from Kumasi to Sandema. The plan was to catch the bus early in the morning and get to the northern city of Tamale by this evening, stay the night, then continue to Sandema the next day. To that end we got up a little before 5 AM and got to the bus station about 6 or 6:30. Unfortunately, when our bus arrived it needed repairs, and it didn't end up leaving until about 3:30 PM, so we spent about nine hours sitting outside in the hot sun and getting periodically blasted with dust by passing buses! It wasn't too bad though, as we drank plenty of bagged water and bought plenty of snacks from the food vendors in and around the station. Finally we got on the bus and set out on the roughly ten-hour ride to Tamale. We're told the north of the country is much less heavily forested than the more humid south. I could see this as we drove; the foliage outside the window is gradually thinning out, losing the tremendous density that we observed in the south near Accra. I'm looking forward to arriving in Sandema this evening. Doubtlessly I'll find a great deal to write about while I'm there.
On Sunday, we visited Albert and Evelyn Annadie, a husband-and-wife team who founded the Kaleo Area Women's Development Association (KAWDA). They fed us a big lunch and told us about the work they do with female victims of HIV/AIDS. Albert spoke eloquently about it and I won't try to summarize it here, but do check out their website at sites.google.com/site/kawdaghana to learn all about their project. We also met Alice, a girl from London who was volunteering with KAWDA for the summer, and Albert and Evelyn's kids, who didn't speak much English but were very friendly. Several of them insisted on arm-wrestling me and Taha, and one of them, Alfreda, variously clung to my leg, rode piggy-back on me, and finally pushed me half way down the path back to the road when we were leaving!
Walking back to the hostel at about three or four, we bought coconuts from a vendor, who chopped the tops off with a machete to make a hole wide enough to drink from. We walked the rest of the way through the afternoon heat drinking the faintly sweet and surprisingly cool milk straight from the shells. The fruit here is fantastic. We've eaten pineapples, oranges, papayas, mangoes, and lemons, and probably other fruit that I'm forgetting, all bought from roadside fruit vendors. Some look very different from what we're used to. The oranges have green skin, as do the lemons, which are spherical and warty-looking. But all of it is very flavourful and much juicier than those I've had anywhere else. The pineapple in particular is the sweetest I've eaten.
One big cultural difference between North America and Ghana is how open the people here are. As I mentioned in my last post, Ghanaians are much more likely to just walk up and introduce themselves to strangers just for the hell of it. Some of the most memorable were the woman in the market who gave me and Sarah (another OG member) new names, and Addi James, a policeman with an AK-47 whom I got directions from and chatted with. Two nights ago we took in some live music and dancing, and there were two local guys who were pretty crazy dancers, who evidently got a big kick out of seeing me try to match their prowess (Julian probably could have done better)! In my part of the world you generally don't talk to others unless there's a particular reason for doing so. This is something my friend Julian has observed in most Asian countries as well; as one of our trip leaders, Taha, said, this closed-ness seems to be a phenomenon peculiar to the West. Why this is, I don't know, but I have to wonder.
Another, more amusing cultural difference, is the corniness of advertising in Kumasi. Everything from movie posters to shop signs are all visually cluttered and gaudy, and festooned with simple photoshop effects like lens flares and blurred-together images. The small businesses that line the streets of Kumasi have names like "Perfectman Ent." and "Great Wisdom Bookstore", and many of them are overtly religious, despite the businesses in question having nothing in particular to do with religion. I can't recall many examples off the top of my head, but my favorite so far was "Jesus is Still Alive Ent.", which I think was an electronics repair shop. Even the taxis are festooned with phrases like "God is Good" and "Jesus saves". Evidently Ghanaians are very religious, and see no contradiction in incorporating that into their commercial endeavors!
Yesterday we began our journey from Kumasi to Sandema. The plan was to catch the bus early in the morning and get to the northern city of Tamale by this evening, stay the night, then continue to Sandema the next day. To that end we got up a little before 5 AM and got to the bus station about 6 or 6:30. Unfortunately, when our bus arrived it needed repairs, and it didn't end up leaving until about 3:30 PM, so we spent about nine hours sitting outside in the hot sun and getting periodically blasted with dust by passing buses! It wasn't too bad though, as we drank plenty of bagged water and bought plenty of snacks from the food vendors in and around the station. Finally we got on the bus and set out on the roughly ten-hour ride to Tamale. We're told the north of the country is much less heavily forested than the more humid south. I could see this as we drove; the foliage outside the window is gradually thinning out, losing the tremendous density that we observed in the south near Accra. I'm looking forward to arriving in Sandema this evening. Doubtlessly I'll find a great deal to write about while I'm there.
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Well, I made it. After a trio of increasingly long but uneventful flights, I arrived yesterday at the airport in Accra, the capital city of Ghana. Walking out of the air-conditioned plane into the open air was a bit like walking into a sauna. Accra is on the coast and it's very hot and humid, especially in the mid-afternoon, which we were walking right into! While waiting for the final flight, I ran into a fellow OG member, Anna from Edmonton, who was on the same flight out of Washington as I. Together we met up outside the airport with Taha Tabish, one of our two group leaders, and he introduced us to his friends Peter and Jahyut, who were drum makers from the north of the country. He also introduced us to "purewata", a kind of purified water that comes in plastic bags, which you bite to open. Peter and Jahyut drove us to the Salvation Army guest house in Accra where we spent our first night.
Accra is a relatively small city by our standards. Only a few buildings stand more than about two stories tall except on the main street, and there is lush greenery lining most of the streets. The city has open sewers, which are pretty smelly in a few places but for the most part don't give off a noticeable smell. For its size it's very busy during the day. After meeting some of the other group members who'd already arrived and chilling at the guest house for a few hours, Anna, Taha and I went to see a little more of the city, as the sun was starting to go down. Taha showed us to the bustling main street and went off to run some errands of his own, leaving Anna and I to explore. We didn't get very far; we were stopped for a moment by a street vendor named Francis selling bead jewelery, and before we knew it four or five other vendors had swarmed us! These guys were super aggressive, selling everything from paintings to woven bracelets, and it took us a good ten or fifteen minutes to extricate ourselves from the crowd! It was a bit scary at first, but of course they're not dangerous, just doggedly persistent. You can't fault them for trying to make a living, even if it is off of naive tourists!
For breakfast we've been eating a dish called bread-and-egg, which we buy from roadside stalls and which is pretty much what it sounds like - egg scrambled with vegetables and sandwiched between slices of fried white bread. Lunch and dinner usually consists of some manner of fried rice mixed with different curries and stews. The street food here is delicious, though I've so far avoided street meat, as we've been warned that if we eat it, we'll be taking our chances. Apparently they sometimes have rat meat though, and if I run across that I'll definitely have to try it! >:D
After lunch on the second day, we packed everything and ourselves into a big van and drove for five hours to the city of Kumasi. We'll spend four days here before setting out for Sandema on Monday. Kumasi is the second biggest city in the country after Accra, but from inside it seems like the much bigger city. The buildings are much denser, and the parts of it that we've experienced seem much denser. I'll have pictures with my next post. Walking around the city the first night, I noticed that for the first time since my arrival it was actually cool out! The climate here is nicer than in Accra, a bit less humid and a bit more breezy. It rains frequently, suddenly and in short, heavy bursts. So far we've been caught out in the rain every time it hits, but after the heat it feels fantastic, so I have no complaints. And the lightning has put on some pretty impressive shows too. So far there's been a lightning storm every night in Kumasi!
Yesterday afternoon, on our first full day in Kumasi, we were split up into groups of three by our trip leaders and sent on our own to Kejetia Market to do a scavenger hunt. To make things challenging, each group was given two hours, and five cedis (about three dollars) to spend on getting things. Being on our own was kinda scary at first, but before long we were having a blast. The people in the market were super friendly, and often surprised and happy that we'd learned even a little bit of the local language, Twi. Some of the things we had to get were information rather than items, things like the national anthem, and these necessitated us getting to know people a little. Fortunately that's very easy to do here! By the end, among other things I'd bought a packet of Camp Rock stickers (we needed something American), a big piece of roasted yam (tasty!), and a live snail almost as big as my fist (it was the smallest one), and I'd also obtained a new name (I think it was Kwami)!
Afterward, we met up with the trip leaders again, and they introduced us to Mark, a native of Sandema who had graduated from the Horizons Childrens' Center. He and the leaders talked to us about the Center and about how OG had begun with the involvement of the OG founders with the HCC. Afterward, over dinner, they judged the outcome of the scavenger hunt. While we fared well, another group won pretty handily - they had run into someone who brought them to a radio station, where they spoke to the host of a radio show on politics and met a Ghanaian senator, all while on-air!
The wildlife here is pretty neat. Lizards of various sizes and colours can be seen running along sidewalks and the tops of walls. There's a bird that's quite common in both Accra and Kumasi, which I think must be some kind of raven. It looks and sounds just like the ravens in the mountains around Vancouver, except that it has a white breast and a patch of white on its back. At night, the frogs in Kumasi are super loud. We sleep on the third floor of our hostel, but the frogs still sound like they're right outside the windows! Bugs aren't really a problem though. I've barely seen a mosquito since I got here, and have only been bitten once, though of course I'm being diligent with my DEET.
That's it for now. There's still a lot to tel and I'll be working on more, and I'll try to post again before we get to Sandema. I also can't seem to upload photos from this internet cafe, but I'll try to find one that does next time. Apparently the internet in Sandema has been dead for six months, so I may not get many chances to post while I'm there. We'll see. Until then, thanks for reading!
Accra is a relatively small city by our standards. Only a few buildings stand more than about two stories tall except on the main street, and there is lush greenery lining most of the streets. The city has open sewers, which are pretty smelly in a few places but for the most part don't give off a noticeable smell. For its size it's very busy during the day. After meeting some of the other group members who'd already arrived and chilling at the guest house for a few hours, Anna, Taha and I went to see a little more of the city, as the sun was starting to go down. Taha showed us to the bustling main street and went off to run some errands of his own, leaving Anna and I to explore. We didn't get very far; we were stopped for a moment by a street vendor named Francis selling bead jewelery, and before we knew it four or five other vendors had swarmed us! These guys were super aggressive, selling everything from paintings to woven bracelets, and it took us a good ten or fifteen minutes to extricate ourselves from the crowd! It was a bit scary at first, but of course they're not dangerous, just doggedly persistent. You can't fault them for trying to make a living, even if it is off of naive tourists!
For breakfast we've been eating a dish called bread-and-egg, which we buy from roadside stalls and which is pretty much what it sounds like - egg scrambled with vegetables and sandwiched between slices of fried white bread. Lunch and dinner usually consists of some manner of fried rice mixed with different curries and stews. The street food here is delicious, though I've so far avoided street meat, as we've been warned that if we eat it, we'll be taking our chances. Apparently they sometimes have rat meat though, and if I run across that I'll definitely have to try it! >:D
After lunch on the second day, we packed everything and ourselves into a big van and drove for five hours to the city of Kumasi. We'll spend four days here before setting out for Sandema on Monday. Kumasi is the second biggest city in the country after Accra, but from inside it seems like the much bigger city. The buildings are much denser, and the parts of it that we've experienced seem much denser. I'll have pictures with my next post. Walking around the city the first night, I noticed that for the first time since my arrival it was actually cool out! The climate here is nicer than in Accra, a bit less humid and a bit more breezy. It rains frequently, suddenly and in short, heavy bursts. So far we've been caught out in the rain every time it hits, but after the heat it feels fantastic, so I have no complaints. And the lightning has put on some pretty impressive shows too. So far there's been a lightning storm every night in Kumasi!
Yesterday afternoon, on our first full day in Kumasi, we were split up into groups of three by our trip leaders and sent on our own to Kejetia Market to do a scavenger hunt. To make things challenging, each group was given two hours, and five cedis (about three dollars) to spend on getting things. Being on our own was kinda scary at first, but before long we were having a blast. The people in the market were super friendly, and often surprised and happy that we'd learned even a little bit of the local language, Twi. Some of the things we had to get were information rather than items, things like the national anthem, and these necessitated us getting to know people a little. Fortunately that's very easy to do here! By the end, among other things I'd bought a packet of Camp Rock stickers (we needed something American), a big piece of roasted yam (tasty!), and a live snail almost as big as my fist (it was the smallest one), and I'd also obtained a new name (I think it was Kwami)!
Afterward, we met up with the trip leaders again, and they introduced us to Mark, a native of Sandema who had graduated from the Horizons Childrens' Center. He and the leaders talked to us about the Center and about how OG had begun with the involvement of the OG founders with the HCC. Afterward, over dinner, they judged the outcome of the scavenger hunt. While we fared well, another group won pretty handily - they had run into someone who brought them to a radio station, where they spoke to the host of a radio show on politics and met a Ghanaian senator, all while on-air!
The wildlife here is pretty neat. Lizards of various sizes and colours can be seen running along sidewalks and the tops of walls. There's a bird that's quite common in both Accra and Kumasi, which I think must be some kind of raven. It looks and sounds just like the ravens in the mountains around Vancouver, except that it has a white breast and a patch of white on its back. At night, the frogs in Kumasi are super loud. We sleep on the third floor of our hostel, but the frogs still sound like they're right outside the windows! Bugs aren't really a problem though. I've barely seen a mosquito since I got here, and have only been bitten once, though of course I'm being diligent with my DEET.
That's it for now. There's still a lot to tel and I'll be working on more, and I'll try to post again before we get to Sandema. I also can't seem to upload photos from this internet cafe, but I'll try to find one that does next time. Apparently the internet in Sandema has been dead for six months, so I may not get many chances to post while I'm there. We'll see. Until then, thanks for reading!
Monday, May 9, 2011
Ready, set...
Adventures will be had. People will by helped. Pictures will be posted. This summer, ANDREW GOES TO GHANA.
Here, I will chronicle my time with the Operation Groundswell West Africa Discovery program. Tomorrow, I embark on a series of flights ending in Accra, the capital city of Ghana. From there, it's north, first to Kumasi for a few days, and then to Sandema, where we'll be spending the bulk of the time. We'll be helping out with a number of organizations Horizons Children's Centre , an orphanage and school where we'll be constructing new buildings, setting up a computer lab, and helping kids with their homework. Another is G-Roots, a microlending institution that is geared towards Ghana's many subsistence farmers and makes loans of seeds, rather than money. That latter was founded by alumni of the program, and it's an interesting twist on the idea of micro-finance. It's only just kicking into full gear this year.
After Sandema, we'll have ten days of independent travel time, which I haven't decided how to use yet. Lots of options, though. Finally, we reconvene in the fantastically-named Princess Town on the coast for debriefing. And then it's back to Accra, and on home.
Still can't quite believe I'm leaving tomorrow morning! Will update soon.
Here, I will chronicle my time with the Operation Groundswell West Africa Discovery program. Tomorrow, I embark on a series of flights ending in Accra, the capital city of Ghana. From there, it's north, first to Kumasi for a few days, and then to Sandema, where we'll be spending the bulk of the time. We'll be helping out with a number of organizations Horizons Children's Centre , an orphanage and school where we'll be constructing new buildings, setting up a computer lab, and helping kids with their homework. Another is G-Roots, a microlending institution that is geared towards Ghana's many subsistence farmers and makes loans of seeds, rather than money. That latter was founded by alumni of the program, and it's an interesting twist on the idea of micro-finance. It's only just kicking into full gear this year.
After Sandema, we'll have ten days of independent travel time, which I haven't decided how to use yet. Lots of options, though. Finally, we reconvene in the fantastically-named Princess Town on the coast for debriefing. And then it's back to Accra, and on home.
Still can't quite believe I'm leaving tomorrow morning! Will update soon.
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